Was this all just a dream?

The last two weeks in Phnom Penh went by lightning fast, leaving me insufficient time to write a blog about my feelings regarding ending this co-op experience. Once I returned back from my second trip to Siem Reap, I was welcomed back to the dormitory by two new, energetic volunteer Leadership Residents who had arrived in my absence. I busied myself over the subsequent days introducing them to the city, the culture of Cambodia and the ways of the Harpswell Foundation (e.g. great cafes, yoga studio, local markets, tuk-tuk rides, English classes, etc.). It was nice to have them arrive before Nellie--the other NU co-op student--& I left so that the Harpswell girls could experience a smooth transition from one set of volunteers to the next. Both of them are great, which made leaving the girls a lot easier knowing they'd be taken care of by great women with genuine hearts.

DawnMarie & Kara (the 2 new volunteers)
with Sophy, the Harpswell graduate who now
works for the Somaly Mam Foundation

US Ambassador Rodley with
Harpswell Students at the dormitory

I was also fortunate to have some exciting opportunities during my last week in PP. Along with the other Leadership Residents I attended an anti-human trafficking rally where Somaly Mam, The Minister of Women Affairs and Her Excellency Bun Rany all spoke. I sat among rescued sex workers that a Harpswell graduate now works with at the Somaly Mam Foundation, which was both enlightening and exciting. I also met US Ambassador to Cambodia, Mrs. Carol Rodley. She and her colleagues visited the Harpswell Foundation to deliver books on behalf of the US Embassy for our library and they were very kind spirited towards all of us.

I finished my teaching responsibilities approximately 5 days before my departure. I had naturally become closer to the girls in the dormitory who I also had as students and it was hard to wrap-up the lessons with them. My class was with 19 pre-intermediate level English speaking students who consistently made me laugh and they could not have been a better group of girls to have for my first teaching gig. They were patient with me when I had difficulty describing certain concepts (e.g. grammar rules, Western cultural norms, pronunciation, homework guidelines) and always congratulated me when I appropriately articulated to them a job well done in their native tongue (twea-ban-luh-oh = good job!). I gave each of them a beautiful little notepad as a small gift to help them write down the English words they did not know or understand, and was utterly shocked when I received a gift in return. The class pitched in to buy me a beautiful wooden handicraft with a painting of Angkor Wat. I had each of them sign it and cannot wait to put it my bedroom at school. Some other girls in the dormitory also gave me gifts, which touched my heart because the generosity of Khmer people (even if they do not have much in the way of money) will always amaze me. Tokens of remembrance are always appreciated, but the ones I received from all of them will forever be special to me.

Students playing a game/dancing during
the funny activity

The management and team leaders at Harpswell organized a final "funny activities" party in honor of Nellie and I leaving, the two new LRs arriving and a few of the girls returning from study abroad programs. It was a great afternoon bbq followed by games, music & dancing. Let me tell you, Harpswell girls know how to throw together the best sober party! They are always so lively and entertaining, and of course ready and willing for a photo shoot as soon as one of the volunteers reveals their digital camera. I was happy to spend one of my final days in Phnom Penh with everyone together because it felt like a family reunion. Many hugs were given to all on that  night!

Team leaders giving a short speech thanking
Nellie & I for our time at Harpswell

And the hugging continued over the last few days. Most of the Harpswell girls were struggling with saying "Goodbye," but I tried very hard to be optimistic for them as I dished out big hugs and flashed a big smile to all of my sisters. I did not want them to feel as though this was a permanent separation. Even though it is realistic to admit that I may not see some of them ever again I wanted to emanate positive energy because there is a good possibility that I will be returning to Cambodia in the future, or that we will cross paths while some of them study abroad, and at the very least we have e-mail and Facebook to help us all keep in touch. I also tried to emphasize that there will be future volunteer Leadership Residents who will be there for them to teach them new things and to be their sisters, too. When it was finally time for me to leave for the airport, I had a huge smile on my face (with no tears) as I waved goodbye because this was such a positive experience for me. I am bummed to have left when I felt as though I was not quite ready to leave, but so grateful for the opportunity to touch these young women's lives and to have my life touched by them.

Our youngest student, Vouch Thou,
and I embracing after my students gave me a gift

Now I am already back home in Connecticut, USA. It was a long journey home (PP to Singapore, Singapore to Frankfurt, and Frankfurt to JFK) and I was lucky to make it home without delays or cancellations since there had been a big snow storm in Europe. Culture shock has not entirely set in yet, but the cold weather is brutal! I keep wondering if this entire experience was all just a dream, or if it is just my jet-lag making my surroundings feel surreal. Yesterday was Christmas Day, and family filled my house to celebrate the holiday season. I wished I could somehow transport all of the people I had met in Cambodia to my house too, but an email to all had to suffice. I know I will continue to miss these girls, especially when I return back to Boston as a full-time student.  However, I am going to take everything I've learned over the past 4 months into the classroom, and look forward to the day when I get to return back to them and their beautiful country.

Corruption: A Wink Is As Good As A Nod

We are all aware that corruption is rampant in many third world countries, and Cambodia is certainly no exception. I was talking with two of my former colleagues from the EPA who were in Siem Reap for an international environmental conference this past week and discussed with them some of the evidence I've heard/read about the Cambodian government's level of corruption. I told them that unfortunately the Ministry of Environment in this country is guilty of corruption, too!

A sand pile in Boeung Kak Lake. The Cambodian
company continues to dump the sand close to
the peoples' homes to pressure them to
move away sooner  rather than later

For one, there is a well known issue in Phnom Penh surrounding the recent award of a 99 year lease from the government to a national Cambodian conglomerate. The lease is of Boeung Kak Lake, a lake that used to be a popular backpacking district, a place for families to run guesthouses, restaurants and bars, and the home of nearly 4,000 families. Not only is this an issue of human rights and internal displacement, but also a failure on behalf of the Ministry of Environment which is allowing the Cambodian company to fill in the lake with sand so that they may build on it. Um, HELLO! Sure, there may be new technology that can make this seemingly irrational construction feat possible, but there are obviously going to be some environmental ramifications in the long-run. Nevertheless, the project has begun and thousands of livelihoods are being destroyed along with the environment.

A beautiful shot of the mangrove
forests on the Tonle Sap Lake

Then there is of course the very new issue that Cambodia has recently found oil in the beautiful Tonle Sap Lake. Oil companies from around the world are currently making their bids, and I'm sure many of them are offers that the Cambodian government cannot refuse. Will the Ministry of Environment do anything to stop them? Will they make their posters, board a boat, and cruise around the lake shouting, "SAVE OUR ENVIRONMENT! GET YOUR OIL ELSEWHERE!"? Very doubtful. So, it will not surprise me when in 2-5 years the fishing industry that takes place in the Tonle Sap Lake is destroyed, yielding nationwide protein deficiency (Cambodians get 30% of their protein intake from the fish in this lake), wreaking havoc on the beautiful UNESCO bird and mangrove protection site, and potentially persuading the centuries old floating fishing communities to buy property on land.

A centuries old Floating Village on Tonle Sap Lake.
The community is nearly self-sufficient

Sacrificing the environment and livelihoods of native populaces on behalf of rapid development, however, is commonplace in Cambodia and many other developing countries around the world. Hollywood can even tell this story well: See AVATAR. Developing countries don't look to history that proves how detrimental environmental degradation can be in the name of development. I sadly cannot say that I totally blame them, as I too would want to have a chance for my country to strike it rich. However, it is discouraging and disheartening to watch the Ministry of Environment not do anything about it. To seemingly not even put up a fight. "Why?" you ask? My answer: 'Because the Minister is undoubtedly a crony to Prime Minister Hun Sen and the big national companies.' This is not speculation, but rather common knowledge here in Cambodia. It is not difficult to get a regulation changed or overlooked to obtain the opportunity for a lucrative development project. Ministers can be bribed, they are human and eager to line their pockets.

Wow, I'm tired from typing all of that. What really fatigues me, however, is not just the prevalent corruption or the environmental negligence, but rather the laundry list of other issues that plague Cambodia. Perhaps this list, which was written in the order of which the topics came to me, will help explain to you all why there are over 2,000 NGOs working here in Cambodia. It is a list that will also help shed some light on all of the nation's woes, and the reasons why so many international development workers will not go hungry for work in Cambodia, even if they grow tired of it:

Khmer people who live in Siem Reap
sifting through the rubbish at the local landfill
 trying to find anything of value 

Internal displacement, sex workers/human trafficking/brothels, orphans, pedophilia, HIV/AIDS, cronyism/corruption/silencing of political opposition, lack of teachers and educational opportunities for children, threat of radical Islam on native Cham Muslims, rural v. urban job opportunities, discovery of oil, growing income disparities, societal rehabilitation and reconciliation post-Khmer Rouge, exploitative Chinese/Japanese joint ventures, lack of maternal health/health education/nutrition, landmines, aesthetic obsession with white skin, children and the poor working/living in unsanitary landfills etc etc etc.

25 November, 2010: "A Day of Giving Thanks" and "A Day of Remembrance"

On Tuesday morning I was promptly greeted with tragic news from Mr. Tee. I was in Koh Kong, Cambodia eating breakfast when the man from the travel office told me to turn around and watch the news on the TV at my guest house. "Did you hear?" he asked. I shook my head to inform him that I had no idea what he was talking about. "About 400 people died and many more injured last night in Phnom Penh. At the Water Festival. Stampede. Lots of people...," and now he shook his head in disbelief. I began asking him questions to find out: Where?! How?! Who?! He told me it happened on the bridge that connects the city of Phnom Penh to the entertainment area of Diamond Island and that he did not know how it started or how it happened but many women and children had died in the mass dash to get off of the bridge. Mr. Tee then looked me directly in the eyes and demanded, "Call everyone you know in Phnom Penh. Make sure they are alright."

A shopping center on Diamond Island. I took this photo
from one of the 2 bridges that connect Diamond Island
to the city of Phnom Penh. This was not the bridge that the
stampede occurred on though.

I reached for my phone and dialed Nellie's number immediately. She and I had just been on that bridge a couple of days prior to check out all of the Water Festival preparations. Little did we know at the time that this bridge would later be the scene of so many deaths, and now I was anxious to find out if she and all of our Harpswell girls were safe and sound. Fortunately, I quickly learned that she and the girls had stayed far away from the Water Festival extravaganza that night and were all just fine. I breathed a sigh of relief. I cannot imagine having to deal with the death of a member from our Harpswell family. Nellie proceeded to inform me that my family and friends had been expressing concern for my well-being on Facebook, so even though I had vowed to disconnect on this mini-holiday I dashed to the nearest Internet Cafe to let everyone know that I was not a part of the stampede and to guiltily let them know that I was on a beautiful beach 6 hours away while this tragic event occurred in Phnom Penh. I couldn't believe this had already made international headlines and I knew my family would be worrying a great deal. Here is the first article I read re: the stampede. I was shocked to learn of all the details...

Traditional Buddhist offerings to people
 in the afterlife: rice, water, bananas
and lit candles.

Well, once I returned to Phnom Penh it was the day before Thanksgiving and I was unsure how I should be feeling. The country--and the Harpswell girls--were mourning the death of their fellow people. The Prime Minister, Hun Sen, declared November 25th a "Day of Remembrance" for the people of Cambodia and expressed that this was the greatest tragedy the country has endured since the ruling of the Khmer Rouge regime under Pol Pot. There was a ceremony held at the bridge in the early morning and in traditional Buddhist practice food offerings were put out by many for those who had perished. Nellie and I were not sure if it was appropriate to be thinking about a feast of turkey and all of the fixings when the flags were flying at half mast throughout the city.

We consequently decided to scale back our enthusiasm for our much anticipated holiday in respect for our girls who were clearly having a difficult time dealing with what had happened. However, we kept our reservation at a local restaurant that was serving a proper Thanksgiving meal and were accompanied by two fellow travelers I had met in Koh Kong who wanted to be with others on this holiday, too. The meal wasn't made by the hands of family and friends who we love, but it was enough to give us a piece of home comfort during a heavy day in Cambodia.

Thanksgiving dinner @ The Garden Cafe in Phnom Penh

Later on in the night I held my English class from 7:30 - 8:30 pm. I did all of the seemingly unimportant things first such as explaining how to appropriately complete their homework assignment. I did this quickly as I wanted to budget in time for a discussion on the meaning behind Thanksgiving being a "Day of Giving Thanks" for what you do have in a time when there is such an awful loss of life. The girls in my class seemed to grasp this concept very well (FYI most of them gave thanks for their families, friends and Alan Lightman & The Harpswell Foundation) and it fostered an even larger discussion on their feelings towards the stampede.

The girls in my English class expressed that they are feeling anxious, tired and afraid. They all said that they watched a lot of the news coverage on TV so the images of their people suffering in the aftermath of the stampede are now stuck in their heads. I think we can all relate to this after watching TV on and after 9/11. They also shared with me that they are now too scared to cross the bridge and go to Diamond Island, which is a place that Nellie has told me that they go to a lot to have fun with their friends. I tried to calm them down because they seemed pretty adamant about never going back. I told them how many Americans said they would never go to NYC or fly on an airplane again after 9/11, but that now time has passed they may regularly do both of those things again. Explaining how time can heal is a hard concept to teach someone when speaking their 2nd language, but I think it helped to raise their spirits and I hope one day they will be able to go to Diamond Island again.

Early morning boat races down
the Tonle Sap River 

Concert outside of the National Museum

It is extremely unfortunate that such an awful event occurred during the Water Festival weekend. The Water Festival is a a national Buddhist holiday that is celebrated in a few S. East Asian countries and is definitely the fan-favorite here in Cambodia. It is said that the city of Phnom Penh nearly doubles in population (no exaggeration!) during this weekend every year because many people from the outlying provinces will travel to PP to celebrate. There are typically many concerts, street vendors selling food and all other kinds of commodities (similar to an American Black Friday experience), boat races, carnival games, fireworks, picnics, etc. Unfortunately, it will now forever be tainted with the memory of so many lives lost and injured. This country has suffered a lot in recent history and it's wonderful to see them persevere even when they experience major set-backs. I can only do my best to keep the girls' attitudes positive and to remind them that their and their country's future still looks so bright.

A 'Globish' World

Teaching English as a second language always seemed unethical to me.  It is a modern form of imperialism, a quest to make everyone the same, or at least speak the same. And yet here I am, in Phnom Penh, teaching English to a group of 19 young women who hang on every word I articulate because they are desperate to master the language as soon as possible. For example, one of my students said to me, "English is the international language. If I learn English, I will get a better job." She is not the first person to say this to me, and I know for certain that she will not be the last.

I first need an answer to this question: Why is English the international language? There is a new book out called Globish by Robert McCrum that attempts to describe this very real phenomenon. I plan to read this as soon as I return home to the States to try and wrap my head around how this all came to be. McCrum discusses more of the theoretical explanations and since I already have the first-hand experience I think this read will provide me with a well-rounded analysis.

The second question I am seeking an answer to is: Why are most foreigners happy to take on the challenge of mastering such a difficult second language? Okay, so I already know the most obvious answer to this question... If business, negotiations and everyday dialogue between people of different ethnicities is conducted in English, then knowing English is essential to having a successful livelihood within our international community. This makes sense and makes me feel so fortunate to have been born into a society that happens to speak the world's language. Make no mistake about it people, if you are from the US, UK, Ireland, Scotland, Australia, and any other English speaking country...you have a huge competitive advantage over those who are not and you... are... on... top!

Houng is a 25-year-old teacher and also a cashier
at a boutique in Phnom Penh. She stopped her education
after grade 12, but has been talking with all of her
customers since then. Consequently, she is
nearly fluent in English!

However, just because I am a native-English speaker it has not stopped me from trying to feel what it must be like to be on the other side. Everyday I interact with young women who are dedicating their time our of their incredibly hectic schedules to achieve fluency in English. It truthfully pains me to compare the diligent work ethic of non-English speaking students to native English speaking persons when it comes to learning a second language. Believe me, this is a serious self-reflection as I can only boast that I know conversational Spanish in addition to my Mother Tongue where as the Khmer girls I live and work with know Khmer, English and are in the process of studying on average 2 other languages--mainly French, Chinese or Japanese. And then there are those Khmer people who I have met on the streets or who are staff in local cafes and retail stores who have received no formal education, yet know how to speak English incredibly well. How do they practice? They talk with every English speaker they meet and never spare an opportunity to learn how they can improve. What I am slowly starting to realize is that with everyone beginning to learn my language (and more!) it is just a matter of time before the job market and society at large will have to decide what other criteria should be used to assess our abilities. Bottom line: myself--and many other native English speakers--may not be on-top for much longer.

I consequently find myself in quite the ethical predicament. Since the international community is already well on its way to creating a world language, do I succumb to the movement and try to join it through educating those who want to learn English so badly? Do I stop what I am doing now and try to not only preserve other languages but avidly strive to master one, two or three others? Or do I strive for a happy medium, whereby I let others continue to teach and learn the English while I rev up my pursuit of achieving fluency in more than just one language?

Places I Would Take Visitors To See

Place #1: Siem Reap, Cambodia

Angkor Wat circa 6: 30 am

If you are in Cambodia, everyone knows that visiting Siem Reap is a must. Siem Reap is a roughly 6 hr bus ride North of Phnom Penh and is home to the infamous Temples of Angkor. I received the opportunity to visit Siem Reap two weeks ago as a result of the majority of the Harpswell girls returning to their home provinces to celebrate a Buddhist holiday called Pchum Ben, leaving all of the volunteers with an unexpected holiday. I was delighted! The temples are a source of extreme national pride for the Khmer people (e.g. Angkor Wat--the most internationally recognized temple--is the symbol on their flag, currency, beer and much more). Since the temples were erected during the height of the Angkorian Era--a time when Cambodia was at its prowess--the Khmer people look upon these temples as a source of inspiration to prosper in the future and to move on from their recent horrific past.  I knew I had to see them at some point while I was volunteering here, but I had no idea I'd be able to explore them so soon.

Ta Promh Temple

Stretching across 100 hectares of forests dotted with reservoirs and rice paddy fields, the Hindu temples (Note: Cambodia was once a Hindu country) are very mystifying, especially when you see one that has fused with Mother Nature. Although it is nearly impossible to see every temple, nor is each temple truly worth seeing since only some have been restored and unearthed, I was glad to have 3 days to wander around the temple grounds. On one of the days I rented a bicycle from my guesthouse with Erika--my fellow Leadership Resident. For an afternoon we leisurely cruised around, passing by many incredible temples and adults hard at work in the rice paddy fields. We even attempted to see a sunset and sunrise like most tourists but the weather was unfortunately not cooperative.

The South Entrance to the Angkor Thom temples.

Aside from the Temples of Angkor, Siem Reap has a great night life scene that makes it a worthwhile spot to bring visitors. I will confess: its downtown area is definitely designed for foreigners. However, it still doesn't feel too Western and offers a great variety of restaurants and bars to check out. I also felt as though it was a much easier city to navigate in comparison to Phnom Penh and the cleanliness greatly surpassed that of the capital city. I understand my bias, for I was on vacation in Siem Reap and I work in PP and consequently my associations of what the city can offer may be skewed. Nevertheless, I defend my claim that it is an incredible city to visit. I look forward to returning in late November/early December to visit with some former EPA colleagues who will be there for an environmental conference. While I am there this second time around I hope to check out the Cambodia Landmine Museum and other hidden treasures located in and around Siem Reap.

Place #2: Downtown Phnom Penh (PP)

What is commonly referred to as the "White Building"

The noteworthy dichotomy that exists between rural and urban Cambodia is a topic I have drawn attention to before. However, I also desperately want to highlight and expose to others how people can lead drastically different lives right across the street from each other in this nation's capital city. On Thursday morning I was invited into the home of a couple who is doing great work with many NGOs in the community. I initially did not know where the apartment was precisely located, but I knew it was in a posh area of PP. Upon arrival I was exceedingly shocked at how gorgeous and newly constructed the building is. I was enamored by this place--cozy, modern, sheik and functional--and consequently only took a quick sideways glance at the decrepit building located diagonally across from this complex, which I soon would learn this couple and a fellow colleague utilize to educate local Khmer students.

The infamous stairwells from the
German film "Same Same But Different"

Later on that same day that I had the chance to actually walk through this run-down housing project. Since I was unable to take any photos during the night, I can say this: it is reminiscent of the type of project development you'd see during the hard knock days in Harlem, Queens or the Bronx...except 10x worse. The history behind this place is still a little foggy to me, but I am hoping to learn more. I want to know: Who owns it? How much is the average rent? Is it going to be knocked down and cause a significant displacement of persons? etc. What I do know as fact is that there are many sex workers loitering outside,waiting for business. I also know that inside there is an apartment that houses 6 people, yet is only 6' x 5' in size and costs $35/month. One of the occupants is an an off-duty sex worker who ignoring her half-German child because she is high on Meth. And have I mentioned that the place looks as though it may collapse at any moment in time?

The source of electricity for the building

Yet tucked along the South side of the building there is a sanctuary for diligent students. An American man (who the couple living in the upscale apartment complex across the way introduced me to) has bought out a few units in this building and modestly transformed them into a school for both girls and boys. It is not much, and is lacking many of the resources that Harpswell has been able to provide for its selected students. But what is important is that it functions as a school and a community center, both of which are places that many of these students had not been to before. He has taken what others would deem a waste of space and made it into positive environment. I have decided to sparingly volunteer for him while I am living here because I have been truly impressed by his work and more importantly because I want these students to have the vision of some day being able to live in the type of apartment that is built across the street from their present-day school.

There are obviously so many more locations throughout Cambodia that are worthwhile for visitors, expatriates and locals to see, but I have chosen these two locations for one main reason. Siem Reap and this ramshackle apartment building unveil the best and worst of past and present-day Cambodia. And what I would hope for those who do get to see both of these places is that they can walk away fully understanding the potential that this country and its people have to create another Angkorian Era for themselves. Through education and exposure for the general populace I whole-heartedly believe that Cambodia will become something great once again.

The City vs. The Villages

Everyday traffic in Phnom Penh.

The city of Phnom Penh is very representative of life in an urban center of a developing country. Roads are paved, but potholes are plenty. Trash of all kinds is left by the roadside for the weekly pick up--or for the monsoon rains, whichever comes first. The air is filled with exhaust fumes stifled by the suffocating mid-day heat leaving one with a slight cough. The children, although adorable, relieve themselves wherever they please--this includes marketplaces where people buy their food. Motodups, tuk tuks, and cars with blasé drivers and passengers create their own road rules as they drive. And, the water ways are highly polluted making drinking water scarce.

My neighbor's home and yard.

Living in this capital city full time is opening my eyes to real Cambodian culture for people who have the means to reside or work (or both) in Phnom Penh. However, I find it important to not spend all of my time in the big cities when I visit a country because there is still always a larger population living in the outskirts and beyond. In order to fully understand a populace, it is crucial to see and experience how everyone lives. I received many opportunities to see urban and rural settings while I was on a Dialogue of Civilizations Program through Mainland China last summer because my Professor was very adamant about us understanding the contrast between urban and rural livelihoods in China. I am similarly trying to recreate that well-rounded exposure to Cambodian society while on coop here. This is why when I received the opportunity to visit a village 50 K outside of the city with a woman who works for the Harpswell Foundation this past weekend, I took it!

The children running away from the "Tickle Monster" (aka Me)!

The name of the village is Tramung Chrum and it is located in the province of Kampong Chnang. The people and culture of Tramung Chrum are unique in that they are Muslims in a predominately Buddhist country. Yet despite their religious practices, their lifestyle is very similar to those of other villages throughout the Cambodian countryside.

With no running water or electricity and strictly dirt roads, the villagers wake up with the roosters and cows as the sun rises and proceed to work all day long in the rice paddy fields, preparing the meals in the homes, cleaning the family's clothes by the wells and allowing the children to frolic in nature. The simplicity of this seemingly peaceful lifestyle is temporarily alluring to a stressed-out foreigner or over stimulated city dweller, until one realizes that the simplicity is accompanied by a lack of food variety and ready supply of water, a lack of education and health care, and most importantly a lack of means to earn a significant living for the family. During my stay here this past weekend, I frequently imagined some of the Harpswell girls--who now live in the dormitories in Phnom Penh--coming from rural villages and provinces such as Tramung Chrum. I cannot even begin to fathom the culture shock that they are experiencing on a daily basis as they try to get comfortable with the big city living.

Women and children from the village of Tramung Chrum
visiting with us and watching us prepare our dinner.

Despite their remoteness from society at large, in true Khmer fashion, the villagers were overly hospitable and eager to meet my friends and I. During the past month, in both Phnom Penh, Kep (an area of the country by the sea), and Tramung Chrum, the Cambodian people have been nothing but kind and welcoming towards me. Smiles never seem to depart from their faces and their eyes are filled with a curiosity to learn and observe everything and anything (even if it's a lackluster viewing of a few barangs--Khmer word for the French, or any White person--eating dinner). I look forward to more adventures within and outside of Phnom Penh. It will be nearly impossible to see and do it all while I am here in Cambodia, but I hope to leave in December with a balanced understanding of the country and its people.

FOR SALE: Books, DVDs and ... Opium?

I had been warned by many who have already traveled through Cambodia to expect a lawless society whereby anything and everything is attainable and achievable, especially in the major cities of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. With that said, I was still caught off guard when a 12-year-old Cambodian street peddler flashed a bag of opium to my friend. We were seated at an outdoor cafe one evening around 10 pm on a Saturday night and we soon realized that this boy was not alone. 

Among him was a group of seven children carrying baskets of various books and DVDs to sell to the expats and tourists who frequent the strip of restaurants and bars down by the riverfront in Phnom Penh. Their English speaking skills were nearly flawless and they all had the charisma to match the energy in their voices, "Books! Books! You like? No, well how about DVD for you beautiful? I have good one for you. No? Okay, how about this?" And ... BAM!, a plastic baggy of opium--a Class A drug-- was presented to her for 'a cheap price just for you beautiful ladies,' concealed only by the books and DVDs blocking the view from potential undercover police.

A child fishing in the Tonle Sap to feed himself lunch.

There are now many nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) that campaign on behalf of these children who essentially have no voices. The NGOS adamantly discourage tourists from giving them money by claiming that most of the money the children collect in a night will go into someone else's pocket and therefore not directly benefit them at all. Instead, it has become a widely requested alternative to buy the children an inexpensive plate of food or drink if you feel as though you have to do something for them.


Disheartening? Incredibly! No matter how much I read about children being used as a source of income for families, or see children across the globe out at all hours begging for money, I have not yet become desensitized.  Behind every group of peddlers and beggars I constantly search to see who is in control of them. In a country like Cambodia, and in a city such as Phnom Penh, it is very possible that the adults they return to at the end of the night are domineering men or women using them as free labor.

A little girl selling items outside of an Angkor
Temple to raise money for her family.
She is about 4 years old.

I am one of those tourists who cannot ignore the children, whose small frames and frequent coughs leave an impression on me. I requested the permission of a restaurant owner to let a group of 3 young street peddlers sit town at a table away from the customers so that they could share a full plate of food for $2.50 USD--on me. He agreed, so long as the children did not try to sell their 'merchandise' while they were in his restaurant. The children were well behaved, so it was a win-win for everyone. 

Although I realize I cannot do this for every child I meet, I do not regret helping those that I can. We must all understand that their annoying and incessant demands (which are undeniably  targeted at mainly white tourists) to buy their goods is a means of survival, and not something that we must ignore and dismiss as petty child-like behavior. Purchasing their goods (especially the cheap and illicit drugs) will only do harm to both the seller and buyer. There are alternatives on how you can handle these transactions, and I encourage all travelers in developing countries to not become desensitized to it all.